Not a seam in sight..

Shima Seiki Industry Visit - Nihonbashi, Tokyo

I felt quite privileged to be given the opportunity to visit the Tokyo based offices of Shima Seiki seamless knitwear technology. As a knitwear designer it was an insightful opportunity to find out more about where the industry is moving and how this technology is affecting the production of apparel and the possibilities within knitwear design. This office space is primarily used as a showroom for the Shima Seiki business to present the latest ideas and developments with the machinery and to promote the product to industry. Presentations are conducted here and people can visit to find out more about the technology, view their samples and gain inspiration.

The day was intended to give us a general understanding of Seamless Wholegarment Technology (SWT) and where it currently fits into industry. The offices were laid out almost like an exhibition space where there were samples, garments and accessories displaying the variation of techniques and outcomes that can be produced using the technology. We were showed two garments which were identical in pattern but one was produced using SWT and the other was fully fashioned and made up of numerous separate pieces. The difference in drape and finish was very prominent and the SWT version hung in a completely different way. This emphasized the benefits of the technology to the aesthetic quality of a garment and demonstrated how it eliminated all visible imperfections from the knitting process. It also removes the strain on seams under the arms of garments and other little details that can be minor flaws in the construction of normal knitted products.

One disadvantage of the technology was that designs had to be passed back and forth between the production team and designer in order to get the samples right and fitting the brief. Cost and time became an issue with this, as it could sometimes take days to communicate ideas and modifications. They have since developed a technology that makes it possible to send a realistic ‘virtual’ sample digitally between them, cutting the exchange process down to hours instead of days and as this image shows, the digital images have a strong resemblance to the intended fabric.

We were also shown the extent of the design functions made possible using the software. Techniques, patterns and images can be easily drawn into designs on the system and adapted to suit the designer regarding things like stitch size and the placing of details. The detail that you can go to in amending the pattern is meticulous and the ‘simulation’ of the final piece that it provides you with is incredibly realistic, presenting a strong visualisation of the end design. A colour variation can be taken directly from a photograph and applied to a design; the computer even gives you ‘suggestions’ on other possible colour palettes and combinations of what ‘it thinks’ will work. I find the capacity of the software pretty mind-blowing.

We then had the chance to look around their showroom and examine sample garments of what can be produced using SWT. Some of the combinations of techniques that can be used simultaneously were so complex and I found myself examining things for any signs of ‘cut and sew’ or seams! The visit was extremely valuable to someone studying Fashion Knitwear like myself, and extremely eye-opening to the modern industry.

PS.. From Sarah..xx